and the expansion to that case to connect the ssd,
I also have a 1TB machine.
The little card in the case delivery has the following link… to a script
that will install the case fans. You can set a fan profile to turn fans on
at % strenght at different temperatures.
Here’s a pic of the latest toy I’ll be testing farming on.
The new Raspberry Pi Zero 2 W.
It has the same processor as the Pi3 series.
Powerful little thing. There’s no real limit on sd card size for the pi zeros these days, you could have a dedicated keychain sized 1tb farming rig.
I’ve got this nice aluminium key chain heatsink case. There are some nice YouTube videos showing the case really does keep your pi zero amazingly cool.
Pi Zero requires 2.5A at 5V The PSU will be bigger than the actual kit.
I’d like to see a project to build a PSU rig that will power multiple Pis and/or Arduinos
Could have one of these on an outside south facing wall / shed roof… run the power in to a usb power pack that would be on charge all the time, and power the pi zero from that.
I think I’ll try a Pi Zero on my boat. I’ve recently set up a dedicated 4G hotspot so connectivity should be uninterrupted and the power could well pay for itself in winter, 100% solar for about half the year. Thanks for the info.
Old car batteries are cheap, but they don’t like a lot of charging/discharging, so you’d get through them quite quickly if they drain at night. I don’t think they are a worse fire risk than Li-ion batteries, but not sure about that. A quick duckduck came up blank.
Providing you don’t discharge more than 20% of capacity (less the better) a lead acid car battery might do the trick, but in general they need care or they won’t last long, so full recharge for hours every day, which means they aren’t ideal for Solar especially in UK unless you use Solar first and mains (or a generator) to finish the charge which takes a long time.
Lithium are much easier to manage and more efficient. They cost about the same for the same useable capacity because you can use 100% of a Lithium battery’s capacity, and don’t have to charge it up fully. You do need a proper battery manager for this, because they must have min/max voltage levels respected or they will be damaged.
I switched from 450Ah of 12v lead acid batteries to a single 115Ah 12v LiFePO4 Lithium battery last year and while the cost of replacing the Lead Acid was about the same as the smaller Lithium, they are equivalent for my use (usually 60 to 80 Ah in a day) and the quicker charging for the Lithium means I’m saving money (faster charging from Solar or generator means I can use more Solar when the sun is shining, and about half the time running the engine for a similar charge, than with lead acid). The Lithium will probably last 20% to 30% longer than the Lead Acid too.
Typically consumer Lithium batteries have a charging circuit built in that expects 5v input (from USB) and drops it to 3.7v for charging. Ideally this also has a temperature sensor cut out to prevent a very intense fire